Travel Date31st May 2011.
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The journey from Mostar to Sarajevo was brief but with some spectacular scenery. I was there in spring, but it may look even better in winter when the peaks are clad in snow.
I bought my ticket the day before, after I arrived from Dubrovnik by bus. The station was almost deserted and a bit dilapidated. After I discovered the ticket window I bought the ticket without problems, despite the language barrier, by writing the date and destination down. It was cheap but I can't recall the exact price; I paid in BiH marka but it was less than $10 in my money.
The cab to the station from the centre of town was also inexpensive. Being cautious I arrived fairly early and again found the place deserted. I was a bit worried that I might end up on the wrong platform. I need not have worried as I joined the solitary other person waiting. Eventually a few more turned up.
When the train arrived I found I could choose my own compartment; there was no need to worry about smokers when we each seemed to have a carriage to ourselves. Later, more boarded as we stopped at towns en-route but the train never got crowded and I still had my own compartment when I reached Sarajevo.
The train was elderly and a little grubby, but the seats were reasonably clean and comfortable. I was able to slide the top of the windows down to take photos so the dirty windows were not too much of a problem.
We followed the Neretva River upstream from Mostar for the first half of the journey, then other river valleys after we crossed the mountains about half way.
For the majority of the trip the scenes from the window ranged from spectacular to picturesque, with the occasional communist-era industrial town and associated high-rise accommodation interrupting the glorious views. I almost forgot the savage history of this idyllic land, but I was forcibly reminded as we reached Sarajevo and saw again the scars of war.
I recommend this trip to any travellers who enjoy scenic train rides. I enjoyed it just as much as my earlier trips on the Glacier and Bernina Expresses through the Swiss Alps.